I’m writing this post in the hopes that some other woman will find herself in the same position I was (wishing someone had written about it) and will find my experience helpful.
We got married in October and had planned on going to Peru to hike to Machu Picchu, but we couldn’t afford the trip or the vacation time immediately after the wedding, so we planned our Honeymoon for the future. We decided on June, because by then we could have enough money together and we’d be able to see the festivities related to the Winter Solstice. We talked about doing the 4-day hike with camping, but Mark thought we should do the 1-day hike since it would be our honeymoon. He figured we should take it easy and stay in hotels and relax.
It’s a good thing he convinced me because come January we got pregnant! One of my biggest stressors initially was whether we were going to have to cancel our trip or not. I began searching the internet for “travel while pregnant,” ”high altitude pregnancy” and wasn’t greatly encouraged by my findings. Basically according to Doctors on the internet pregnant women should not go to high altitudes because they are at increased risk of preterm labor. Someone in Denver said lots of travelling women end up having their babies there.
Well, I don’t live at sea level, so maybe I’ll be okay? I thought surely someone has done this before and I searched “hike Inca Trail pregnant” and basically found nothing. One woman was going to do it, got pregnant and cancelled. The tour company arranging our guide for the hike said I shouldn’t do it because it would be too strenuous. All signs point to no.
I was very upset because I didn’t want anything to get in the way of our trip. Isn’t that what everyone expects: you have a baby and it ruins your life? You have to cancel all your fun and you will never travel anymore. But does this have to start at the moment of conception?
In my first visit with my midwife I asked her about whether I could go and she pretty much said yes. She was not worried about the altitude and said I can do the hike if I feel like it. A weight was lifted off of my shoulders. At the very worst, I could still go to Peru and opt out of the hike, but I would make it my goal to do the hike.
My plan was to do some similar hikes in Big Bend, like to Emory Peak, as practice. That is roughly the same elevation as parts I would be hiking in Peru and also 7 miles, like the Inca Trail from km 104. I did go hiking once in Big Bend, but only a short hike to Cattail Falls. It turns out I was too lazy to make a point to practice hike for this trip.
When we arrived in Peru various people around us were having troubles with the altitude: headaches, dizziness, stomach trouble, balance problems, low blood pressure, brain farts and trouble forming sentences. Many also were complaining of shortness of breath after very short walks or climbs. I, however, felt completely normal and fine. I don’t know if it’s the extra blood volume associated with pregnancy or if my body just rocks, but the altitude seemed to have no affect on me. So I was all ready for my hike.
The morning of the hike we took the train to km 106- there had been an avalanche (rock slide?) a few years before and fire a week or two before at km 104 preventing us from starting there. So we began the hike a little further into in, but I don’t know how much we missed out on. According to the guide, those first two kilometers are rough, so maybe it’s a good thing I skipped them. We crossed a footbridge to the checkpoint and started climbing. The guide said the first two hours would be uphill and difficult. Then we would reach a dining and rest area, along with an archaeological site, after which the hike would be much easier. I noticed pretty immediately that I was overdressed. In Cusco the mornings had been quite chilly, and the days comfortable when the sun was out, but a jacket was needed in the shade or under cloud coverage. In Machu Picchu, however, it was much warmer and more humid. I began the hike at 8:30am sporting a long sleeved shirt and a fleece. The fleece came right off and I promptly started sweating through my long sleeved shirt. I was running out of breath quickly and had to stop to catch my breath. It seemed that the more we climbed the more frequently I had to catch my breath. I didn’t watch the clock or count steps, but sometimes it seemed that I could only go 2 minutes before needing a break. I felt completely fine otherwise- no headache or dizziness. In the past I have gotten headaches easily from overexertion, so I was happily surprised not to get one on the hike. I had brought with me a Camelbak with 3-L capacity so I was drinking water frequently. To my amazement, I made it to the restaurant area in about 2 hours and 15 minutes. That made me feel much better about all the breaks I had taken, to only be 15 minutes behind.
We rested for about 10 minutes, then walked over to the archaeological site, then back to eat lunch. I bought a T-shirt (not to commemorate the hike, but to have something cooler to wear) and we continued on. The rest of the hike I don’t think I needed a single break. We did stop a few times to take pictures or just enjoy the view, but it was very doable from that point on. My thighs felt sore during the first part of the hike, but they made it through the whole thing.
We got to the Sun Gate and meandered down to a nice shady spot for an after-lunch snack and break. We continued on down to the Guard House, and on to the bottom of the trail. We did not tour around Machu Picchu today, as we would return refreshed the next day to check it out, but we did hang out at the restaurant near the bus stop for some celebratory beers, or ice cream in my case.
Some disclaimers: I am of average height and weight, and my pregnancy is considered low risk. I also purchased travel insurance in case of any emergencies. At no time did I feel I was putting myself or my baby at risk, and I think the water, food and breaks I took along the way were very important to my success.
Pictures to come!